4.03.2009

Rise up my perfume friends. Rise up.

The time has come for a mother frakking rebellion. I know only two people read this blog and I can't make a difference alone but I must post about this. It could affect the lives of several thousand insane, obsessive perfume freaks. I know a few women who might just go into a catatonic state if things keep going this way.

My friends, the perfume industry has been, over the past several years, subjected to a totalitarian dictatorship and its unethical, harsh regulations. Perfumes aren't a new invention - but the science of man made molecules certainly is. Before this science all perfumes contained only naturally found elements. Ambergris, a secretion from a sperm whale. Civet, a musk that was once extracted from the gland of an African cat. Both are now chemically created. Which is fine with me because killing animals for their glands to make perfume isn't right - but why to lemons need protecting? And oak moss? It's from lichens growing on oak trees for frakssakes. If I'm not being clear: they regulatory bodies are forbidding perfumes from containing any natural ingredient that could potentially cause an allergy.

Enter: Big Bro. The "I know what's best for you" crew. The "I'm just trying to protect you" brigade. Industry regulators wants to, essentially, bar all natural ingredients from perfumes as people have the potential to be allergic. I like The Non-Blonde's comparison: If you're allergic to peanuts, don't buy a Snickers bar. And don't expect me to go without a Snickers if the craving arises. (And just to be fair, this blog was inspired by her post. I feel like everyone and anyone who cares about perfume needs to talk about this.)

So in no time flat, classic perfumes that have graced the pulse points of women for decades are being reformulated. In some cases fragranaces are reformulated so they're in pace with the times - tastes change over time. The 80's were big, in your face scents (Obsession). Today it's Light Blue and rancid sugar water with the names of barely legal celebrities on the label. It's no wonder that when Robert Piguet wanted to re-release his revered Visa there was tweaking (but that tweaking was phenom!). More often than not the reformulations smell like shite and nothing like they're supposed to. Fragrances should transport you. They're pieces of art. They tell a story. If you rip pages out of Of Mice and Men you might just think Lennie is a monster that should be locked away, instead of crying out for someone to help him. Likewise, when you take the natural citrus oils and replace it with a synth molecule you might get Lysol or Pledge, which is exactly what The Non-Blonde believes happend to Annick Goutal's Eau d’Hadrien.

The world of perfumery is being destroyed, one ingredient at a time. What if artists were no longer allowed to use the color green? Would paintings never express the wonder of a natural landscape? Could you never take a photo of Tuscany? (P.S, check out Ilva's other pics and her food blog!) Or what if minor scales were outlawed? Would we no longer have the haunting beauty of Toccata and Fugue in D Minor?

It just doesn't make sense to do this. I don't know how to help stop it. I am mad and sad at the same time! I guess it's all the more reason to spend in ordinate amounts of money to get as many much-wanted frags into my collection before they're destroyed by the regulatory bodies.

2 comments:

MEGGILY said...

Frak that dude. You should write letters petitioning this. Explain what will happen to the loyal customer base if this trend continues. I don't know a lot about perfuming, but if you write a draft I'll send in a letter too!

lujlp said...

Secretions of a whale? delicate way of saying whale vomit - Its the equivelent of a hairball you know

But I agree, even as a male smell is the most primal sense, it has the quickest path to the brain

One thing though, has anyone done a study on the long term health effects of artifically created trains of molecules? What element do they use to bind these chains together?

If its something as simple as hydrogen ist no big deal, but what if they start using heavier elements?